Friday Farewell: L'Hostaria Ristorante Leaves Aspen After 25 Years, Tonight
Owners Tiziano and Enrica Gortan reflect on a quarter-century, why they're closing the beloved Italian haunt, and what's next this winter. (Hint: It won't include payroll.)
Hello, Aspen food fans!
Welcome to ISSUE #2 of Amanda Rae Food, featuring an exclusive interview with L’Hostaria Ristorante owners Tiziano and Enrica Gortan. When the couple announced that they’re closing the Italian eatery on November 5 after 25 years in Aspen, locals wailed on social media:
“WHAAAAAAAT?”
“Noooooooooo!”
“Sad news!”
And this, from a chef and longtime customer: “They have taught us all something very valuable: True hospitality and love of food and people.”
I reached out to Tiziano and Enrica reflexively. L’Hostaria has been my go-to spot since I moved to Aspen in 2012. They have encouraged my work as a freelance writer and editor for nearly as long. The food—fluffy focaccia, eggplant Parm bubbling in a petite cast-iron pan, spaghetti alla carbonara, spinach fettuccine alla Bolognese, bistecca from the bar menu—is hearty, unpretentious, and priced to earn an insatiable fan following. The dining room’s more ambitious seasonal menu and frequent pairing dinners showcasing winemaker friends from the Gortan homeland provide reasons to celebrate something, anything, to soak up the warm environment.
The Italian welcome begins the moment you pull open the trattoria door: Big smiles and “Buona sera!” from Tiziano, Fabrizio, Giovanni, and hostesses. Staff that has been here for 5, 10, 15, 20 years maintains the friendly energy. OG bartender Lance keeps the wine flowing. Sommelier Carlos might swan over to say hello and offer to pour a taste from a special bottle of Barolo. Show up alone, and it’s likely you’ll leave having made a few new friends. Later, return with parents, guests, and newcomers so that they, too, can savor L’Host vibes.
L’Hostaria personifies what Aspen locals know but outsiders can’t grasp (yet): Our town isn’t all fancy food and cringeworthy checks. Despite its shiny exterior, Aspen is a small town with soul. Now: Does the end of L’Hostaria spell the end of an era in Aspen?
I braced myself for an emotional discussion when I visited the couple to find out why they’re closing L’Hostaria, still in its prime after a quarter-century. Instead, Tizi and Enri greeted me, as they always do, with a pair of grins and wise words to match.
THE EXIT INTERVIEW: TIZIANO & ENRICA GORTAN OF L’HOSTARIA RISTORANTE
Since the news broke on October 20, customers have lined up outside of L’Hostaria each night before you open the door at 5:30—even in a snowstorm on Tuesday!
Tiziano Gortan: The response is outstanding. Everybody wants to be part of it and enjoy the last moments. I’m getting letters, texts, emails, comments, people crying on my shoulder. Friends from Italy, people from Texas, calling to check in. I didn’t realize how many people have been touched by our decision. That’s the beauty: It’s like planting a seed and after 25 years you see your tree.
Yet you shared, “the last 18 months have brought a new level of stress”?
TG: We went through the pandemic, closed, reopened at 25 percent capacity, 50 percent capacity, space between the tables—
Enrica Gortan: —the situation was very stressful. Tracing, masks, vaccination. It was intense.
TG: The question was always: How long can we do it? This summer was so busy here. The major issue was to find [workers]. We went through July with a shortage in staff.
Why is it time to move on now, in 2021?
TG: Aspen is changing. This pandemic created chaos. So many people moved here and want to be ‘local.’ We saw new faces, new customers, which in some ways is great. But there is a limit. My decision was for my family, for me. 25 years flew by very quickly. I did a lot for the community, and it’s my time. I hope people understand.
When did you make this decision?
TG: When Jimmy’s announced his closing [in September], I faced my reality. Jimmy’s opened [in 1997] a few months after us. I thought, The same thing is gonna happen to us…We went [to Jimmy’s] for dinner the night before it was closing, the day we signed the contract [to sell L’Hostaria]. Jimmy was there, shaking hands. He was happy and smiling. He did a lot for the community. He did a lot for us.
How has your experience at L’Hostaria evolved since the announcement?
TG: I enjoy the restaurant in a different way, without as much pressure. [Before] when we went through the best moments, I was always worried because the bad moment was coming. But I always tried to find motivation in the ability to have great people here.
How do you nurture that connection among staff?
TG: The power of this restaurant [is] to bring out the best of each individual. If you get the best of 40 people, you get a lot. [Chef] Ruben—he’s been with us for 23 years! Fabrizio started in 2007; Carlos, 2009. Lance has been with us since 1994 at La Baita on [Aspen Mountain]; Alfonso as well, as one of the bussers. If you base the spirit of the restaurant in good values, you can have a solid staff [that] feels they’re growing with the restaurant. They can feel proud.
EG: They feel it’s a family.
Folks might be surprised to learn that Tiziano’s role as host at L’Hostaria did not come naturally at first.
EG: For the first five years, [chef Tiziano] was only in the kitchen; we had [original owners] Dante and Cristina [Medri] in the front. It’s so clear in my memory: He was so shy! I physically had to push him toward the tables. Over the years, he was able to embrace that. And the community really embraced him.
What is your proudest accomplishment?
TG: I came here as a young guy 25 years ago, got married, we have two kids, we employed so many people. I was able to grow and find my path. We got big support from the community. All the charity events and benefits, we did pay back.
As Erica [Robbie] wrote, the bar is a place to connect with so many different people, in a simple way, without showing off. We were able to keep our prices very fair for Aspen.
EG: We were very lucky to be able to come from Italy, very young and with little English. We had [two daughters] who grew up in the restaurant, they started working when they turned 14, understanding where money comes from and learning a trade. It was an unbelievable opportunity for them in this incredible valley. Viola—a [college] senior studying journalism and media relations—posted yesterday: ‘So sad to see my childhood go.’
Highlights from the countless fundraisers that L’Hostaria has held over the years?
TG: I remember that beautiful event with Mountain Rescue in 2009, projecting the movie [127 Hours] and Aron Ralston talking about it. Amazing!
EG: In 1999 or 2000, we had a big Cuban band here: Maraca y Otra Vision…[actor] Michael Douglas and his wife dancing.
TG: At the beginning we connected with Jazz Aspen Snowmass. We had students from Jazz Aspen perform, organized by Chris Harrison and his band.
EG: Venetian night. Brazilian night with Jazz Aspen. We did two fundraisers for the Waldorf School eighth-grade trip and we had the kids working: serving, cooking, at the door. At the end of the night they knew exactly what they were doing.
Has there been a defining moment these past few weeks?
TG: The other day a customer said, “You know, I need to quit. Look at you! You’re on it!” It’s the [same] passion to make a dish. In July I made risotto for Lance with Andreas from Allegria [Restaurant in Carbondale; also sold recently]. A friend of mine sent me saffron she’s growing from Italy. You put all your effort there, to create the best dish every time. It’s difficult? Yes. It’s possible? Yes.
That passion for feeding people comes from your parents and grandparents in Italy?
My history and my value to food is different than other people. When you grow up around your family cooking, they braise rabbit and you [remember] this ‘flavor in your nose.’ When I came to the USA, I had never seen a McDonald’s in Italy. Love for cooking is in my blood.
What is your recipe for success?
Thinking about the zuppa di pesce from the bar menu: We’re not talking about truffles and caviar. We’re talking about simple seafood. The key is the lobster stock that gives sweetness to the dish. I’m able to have a nice kale salad, Black Angus steak. Can we get better quality? Of course, but then the price instead of $25 will be $35. A dish can be affordable and good. That’s always been very important.
[Find recipes for L’Hostaria’s zuppa di pesce and spaghetti alla carbonara in “The Aspen Cookbook” (November 2020): Order only at AspenCookbook.com.]
Where will L’Hostaria’s legacy live on?
People can buy souvenirs—shirts, wines, paintings, vases [1-3 p.m. on Friday, November 5]. But it’s the memories that are going to live on forever inside of us.
And L’Hostaria’s closing party is on Friday, November 5?
TG: No reservations, we’re sold out. DJ Naka G will start at 9 p.m., until 1:30 [a.m.]. A nice evening: feast, music, relax, live in the moment! [Normally] I can’t do that because I’m planning: tomorrow, Christmas, music, the band, February, parties, Food & Wine…
EG: It’s always been run, run, run, run, run.
What will you miss the most?
EG: Having a big space to host Christmas, Easter, birthday parties. For customers, but also for us, our friends, and family.
Parting advice for the new owner, who plans to open a restaurant here this winter?
TG: My comment to him: I hope you can use [our] investment for the community and try to carry on that feeling—and fair prices, especially at the bar. Please don’t forget the locals.
What’s next for you, Tiziano and Enrica Gortan?
TG: We’ll go through the winter without any plans! We’ll wake up and say, What do you want to do today? 𝓐
An extremely well written article to capture a restaurant legacy. Well done. Cheers. A…
Bravo 🖤