BRIGHT SPOT: Las Montañas Aspen transforms Jimmy's with Tex-Mex panache, cuisine to match
The second local landmark revitalized by Austin, Texas-based MML Hospitality is now open for lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch
OAXACA BY WAY OF AUSTIN: It’s a vibe at the new Las Montañas, experienced first as a firecracker of color upon pulling open the aqua-painted door high atop 205 S. Mill St. The restaurant, located in the space occupied for 24 years by Jimmy’s: An American Restaurant, launched last night to friends and family. Happily, it feels fresh—yet comforting familiar.
Once inside Las Montañas, an arched entryway leads to the same soaring barrel ceiling over showpiece bar. Here a swiveling patron can see both Red Mountain to the north and Aspen Mountain to the south, perhaps a little more clearly now.
Adios, thousands of Sharpie signatures by dudes named Jimmy. Instead, the canopy is painted a glowing-sunset shade of coral. The color extends to the dining room beyond, where cone-shaped, glass-paned lanterns dot the ceiling. The original, well-worn wooden flooring remains throughout.
Tying it all together are elements emblematic of award-winning interior architecture and design duo Liz Lambert and Larry McGuire, partners, along with Tom Moorman, in McGuire Moorman Lambert (MML) Hospitality, which operates Las Montañas. A textured wall treatment resembles white stone slabs or brick from a distance; tawny leather and carved wooden chairs are set before white tablecloths; and classic Mexican tile lines hallways, powder rooms, and the new open kitchen.
Chefs can be seen through two wall cutouts, each framing a giant, gold bird on a hanging perch. (During our twilight meal on the terrace overlooking Hopkins Avenue, hummingbirds greeted us constantly—not that we minded.)
If the vibrant design, cocktail list, and menu of “elevated Mexican” fare and “Tex-Mex favorites” are any indication, Las Montañas will blaze a fast path toward stapledom in our little ski town.
That’s the story of sister restaurant Clark’s Aspen, anyway, which MML Hospitality opened in the former Little Annie’s Eating House in 2017. Las Montañas is the 23rd project by the Austin, Texas-based boutique hotel and high-end restaurant group. A third Aspen landmark overhaul is next: the 68-year-old Mountain Chalet, acquired by MML Hospitality in March 2021 for a cool $68 million.
Our meal at Las Montañas was muy bien—sí, just hours into the very first service. Credit the hospitality team: A small army of Austin imports and longtime Aspenites that Jimmy’s regulars will recognize. Alex, Karen, and Tim tended bar and served tables; Pete greeted guests as GM (a move from Clark’s GM post); John (also from Clark’s) is the bar director. Junior bussed our table with his trademark spicy quips. Olé, baby!
Lots of other local friends work here, too. In brief conversation, they sound delightfully invigorated by this new venture, though realistic. Fact is, some folks will balk at Las Montañas pricing because…that’s a favorite Aspen pastime in 2022.
MY MEAL* HIGHLIGHTS:
—The hand-rolled corn tortillas live up to the hype: soft, supple, and superior to their flour-based counterparts. Tortilla-rolling is constant in that open kitchen!
—Ceviches and aguachiles ($6-$27), especially the ultra-tender octopus with frizzled leeks (below) and the aji amarillo-infused snapper.
—Sizzling fajitas ($40-$120) served in a cast-iron skillet on a hefty tabletop grill with all the fixin‘s. Nine varieties of fajitas comprise half of the main dishes. Don’t neglect to dunk ’em in the jalapeño-garlic butter served alongside, it’s liquid gold. We went big with bacon-wrapped filet and jumbo Gulf shrimp fajitas (below). After a few apps, we found the portion substantial and satisfying for two people. However…can you guess the price? Steep, indeed.
Noted by fellow diners, the less costly proteins can be equally as stunning, thanks to the table-side presentation and ample sides. Bonus points for the mass of molten cheese bubbling directly on metal, which turns extra crispy above the flame over time.
—Didn’t try, looking forward to: The other half of the entrée menu, featuring enchiladas (chicken mole; picadillo; green tomatillo chicken; cheese; $29-$39), a 12-ounce NY Strip carne asada platter ($85), red snapper fish tacos ($39), beef-cheek barbacoa plate ($45), and a couple of curated combo plates ($32-$45).
—Jimmy Yeager-approved margaritas. Yeager’s signature recipe: Jimmy’s Own ($22) blends Tequila Ocho Reposado with Grand Marnier, fresh lime, and agave. “Maudie’s Famous Frozen Margarita ($16), inspired by Aspen’s own Crazy Ray, perfected by Joe Draker” is essential, offered with three optional $2 swirl-ins and salt rims. (Try all four! Maybe not in one sitting.) The smoky Austin Skinny ($17) is a robust, low-sugar marg (Rey Campero Espadin mezcal, lime, Giffard orange liqueur, Aleppo salt).
—Didn’t try, can’t stop wondering: The Caesar salad ($24), an ode to its origin story in Tijuana circa-1924?
—Gone in less than 60 seconds: the highly addictive $8 crunchy shell beef tacos. Pure nostalgia, elevated. If I won 40 bucks tonight, I’d blow it all on these tacos tomorrow.
—NEW ESPRESSO MARTINI ON THE BLOCK ALERT! Café Guadalajara ($21) is made with LALO blanco tequila and “cracked espresso,” making it more bitter than sweet. Fans of balanced bitter tastes, you might find your new favorite version here….
—Don’t worry about filling up on chips, just order it for the table: Queso à La Polvos ($21), a classic fundido studded with green chile and served alongside picadillo (seasoned ground beef), pico de gallo, and guacamole. In fact, the recipe was gifted from the namesake Austin restaurant, Polvos, itself a legendary spot that opened in—cue the birthday ghost of Jimmy’s past—1997!
*Disclosure: Food at Las Montañas friends and family soft opening private party was comped; alcohol was not. As always, opinions are my own and I strive for fairness and accuracy in my reporting.
RSVP: lasmontanasaspen.com
205 S. Mill St., Aspen
970-429-9255
The bacon-wrapped fillet and shrimp dish is talkin’ to me. My kinda place 🤤